MAKE SURE YOUR JACKET IS LONG ENOUGH
“The current trend for softer and more fluid tailoring means cloth with more movement and drape. This lends itself to a longer-line jacket – something that falls just below the hip – which works better for deconstructed, lightweight shapes meant to be worn undone,” advises Catherine Hayward, fashion director of Esquire UK. “The extra-short ‘bumfreezer’ style is currently on hiatus, so elegantly louche is the attitude to aim for.”
KEEP A STRAIGHT SLEEVE LINE
“The seam on the shoulder of a deconstructed jacket should sit just at the point at which the shoulder curves over into the arm. If your jacket has a lot of construction and padding around the shoulder, it should hang over by no more than 1cm, and the line of the sleeve down from the nape of the shoulder should be straight,” shares Teo van den Broeke, style and grooming director at British GQ. “Ergo, the curve of your bicep should never be visible through your jacket. Ever.”
ALIGN YOUR JACKET AND SHIRT COLLARS
Fit is everything in a jacket, and the collar is where you want to pay particular attention. Make sure the jacket collar rests neatly against the shirt collar, touching it only lightly and with no large gaps in between. Where the collar turns to lapel, Teo van den Broeke shares some styling advice: “Lapel-wise, ultra-wide is having a moment, but this isn’t for everyone. If you’re looking to make a statement, a 90s-style mandarin or Nehru-collared jacket has a low-key, summery appeal.”
BUTTON YOUR JACKET CORRECTLY
Your approach to buttoning your jacket should differ depending on whether it is single- or double-breasted. “Beautifully cut, buttoned-up double-breasted jackets work particularly well on long, lean frames, draping the form and creating an illusion of shape,” explains Teo van den Broeke. “I’m also a fan of single-breasted jackets, but only when the fabric of the suit is relatively thick, as this will afford the suit a more elegant construction.” Remember to keep the last button of a single-breasted jacket open to avoid a taut ‘X’ shape.
SHOW A LITTLE SHIRT
Approach your suit sleeve with the intention of showing a flash of shirt cuff – though no more than 1-2 cm. To achieve this, measure your suit sleeve to hit just above where your cuff meets your wrist, making sure it doesn’t overhang or fall too long.